F...Toyota

[mredskins]

yes i had my local guy do my pads, that is why i brought it to him first but it never sound like a brake issue and he confirmed it was not. I trust him and have spent $K with him over the past ten years. He has had made mistakes and always goes to great lengths to fix his errors.

Plus since they pulled the brakes off to do the wheel bearings who knows if they put them back correctly.

Again I think it just service advisor talk to keep me busy while they figure it out, the last thing they want to do is pry open the diff unless they are positive that is the issue.

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by mredskins

yes i had my local guy do my pads, that is why i brought it to him first but it never sound like a brake issue and he confirmed it was not. I trust him and have spent $K with him over the past ten years. He has had made mistakes and always goes to great lengths to fix his errors.

Plus since they pulled the brakes off to do the wheel bearings who knows if they put them back correctly.

Again I think it just service advisor talk to keep me busy while they figure it out, the last thing they want to do is pry open the diff unless they are positive that is the issue.

Did they drain the diff fluid? I think the drain plug has a magnet on it, so if the thing is shredded, that plug should tell a story. As well as the oil.

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by cpayne5

Did they drain the diff fluid? I think the drain plug has a magnet on it, so if the thing is shredded, that plug should tell a story. As well as the oil.

Yeah i was thinking that too. at this point it is warranty work so do what they may. As soon as I get it back I am trading it in.

[mredskins]

update two

They are going to replace the right side wheel bearing both axle bearings and the differential, will be done Tuesday.

[Monkeydad]

Originally Posted by mredskins

update two

They are going to replace the right side wheel bearing both axle bearings and the differential, will be done Tuesday.

That's a lot of failure for 62K miles.

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by Buster

That's a lot of failure for 62K miles.

Actually 57k my RDX is 62k. To be honest at this point they are being lazy just throwing parts at it until it stops making the noise but hey if Toyota is stroking the check what does it matter.

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by mredskins

update two

They are going to replace the right side wheel bearing both axle bearings and the differential, will be done Tuesday.

Isn't the wheel bearing and the axle bearing the same thing?

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by firstdown

Isn't the wheel bearing and the axle bearing the same thing?

no wheel bearing is in/near your tire, the axle bearing is in the center of the axle near the differential.

[Monkeydad]

There are usually two ports to check on the AC, a high-pressure side and a low-pressure side.

But 150psi is way too high for either. The high pressure side usually reads about 70-80psi and the low side around 35-40psi. The low side of the one you want to check. You're actually not supposed to open the high pressure side.




When it reads way high, it usually means there is a leak in the line. I went through this with my wife's car last year.

But first, did you read the pressure with the car running and AC on its highest setting? That's the only way to get an accurate reading. If it's reading high, it does not mean there is that much refrigerant in it, that's just an indication of a problem, not the actual pressure.

Test the low pressure side with it running and blowing on high. If it's reading low, add some r134a until the compressor kicks on, should happen just over 30psi.

I am fairly good at car AC repair. Fixed my own before and diagnosed my wife's (was a leaky line and evaporator coil inside the dash...let the pros do that work).

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by Buster

There are usually two ports to check on the AC, a high-pressure side and a low-pressure side.

But 150psi is way too high for either. The high pressure side usually reads about 70-80psi and the low side around 35-40psi. The low side of the one you want to check. You're actually not supposed to open the high pressure side.




When it reads way high, it usually means there is a leak in the line. I went through this with my wife's car last year.

But first, did you read the pressure with the car running and AC on its highest setting? That's the only way to get an accurate reading. If it's reading high, it does not mean there is that much refrigerant in it, that's just an indication of a problem, not the actual pressure.

Test the low pressure side with it running and blowing on high. If it's reading low, add some r134a until the compressor kicks on, should happen just over 30psi.

I am fairly good at car AC repair. Fixed my own before and diagnosed my wife's (was a leaky line and evaporator coil inside the dash...let the pros do that work).

Well I read the 150 off a cheap walmart gauge so basically it just means it is high.

If you get a high reading on both sides it is overcharged but how can it be all of sudden overcharge, I have never added anything to it?

Who knows it goes in Wednesday hopefully if my 4Runner is fixed.

[mredskins]

So my Acura was a bad clutch on the A/C; $850 to repair, yeah me! =(

[Monkeydad]

Japanese quality.

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by Buster

Japanese quality.

Well I could go back and dig out my old repair bills on my last Grand Cherokee (97) and total up to the point where this Acura is and I willing to bet it was in the neighborhood of $2000 at 3 years and 60K miles, my Acura is at $850.

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by mredskins

Well I could go back and dig out my old repair bills on my last Grand Cherokee (97) and total up to the point where this Acura is and I willing to bet it was in the neighborhood of $2000 at 3 years and 60K miles, my Acura is at $850.

Don't feed the troll.

[tryfuhl]

Originally Posted by cpayne5

Don't feed the troll.

you may love jeep but to act like they're a benchmark for quality would be quite ironic