Car Trouble, Need Advice

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by saden1

What? VA doesn't have emission testing anymore?

I do have it and it $35 a year now.

Virginia Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Program

The Required Official Inspection Procedure, as approved by the Virginia State Police Superintendent, is as follows:

REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Inspection Manual":

1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.

2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.

3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:

• Worn, damaged or missing parts.
• Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums.
• Leaks in system, proper fluid level.
• Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or discs.
  (NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the official inspection manual for exceptions.)

4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:

• Broken or missing parts.
• Proper adjustment.
• Standard factory equipment or equivalent.

5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:

• Approved type, aim, and output.
• Condition of lamp, wiring and switch.
• Beam indicator.

6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:

• Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
• Aim of fog and driving lamps.
• Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
  (NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. Count load in measuring.)

7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:

• Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
• Correct indications and tell-tale (visual or audible).
• Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.

8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR: (Jack up front end as shown in Manual)

• Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends.
• Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.
• Play in steering wheel.
• Wheel alignment and axle alignment.
• Broken spring leaves, and worn shackles.
• Shock absorbers.
• Broken frame.
• Broken or missing engine mounts.
• Lift blocks.

9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:

• Condition of tires including tread depth.
• Mixing radials and bias ply tires.
• Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.

10. – INSPECT MIRROR FOR:

• Rigidity of mounting.
• Condition of reflecting surface.
• View of road to rear (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body) – (Visibility 200 feet to rear).

11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:

• Electrical connections, mounting and horn button.
• Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.

12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:

• Approved type safety glass.
• Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision.
• Cracked, scratched or broken glass.
• Stickers. ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED.
• Sunshading material attached to the windshield to ensure it does not extend more than 3 inches downward from the top of windshield, unless authorized by Medical Waiver Certificate.
• Operation of left front door glass.

13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:

• Operating condition.
• Condition of blade.

14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

• Exhaust line-manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.
• Leakage of gases at any point from motor to point discharged from system.

15. – INSPECT LICENSE TAGS FOR:

• Illumination of rear plate.

16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:

• Operating condition of hood latch.
• Presence of emissions system -Evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected.
• Fluid levels that are below the proper level
  1. Brake fluid.
  2. Power steering fluid.
• Power steering belt - proper tension, wear, or absence.

17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM (1973 and Subsequent Models) FOR:

• Installation.
• Operation.
  (NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

• Anchorage.
• Location.
• Condition.

19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:

• Approved type.
• Installation.

20. – INSPECT AIR BAG AND AIRBAG READINESS LIGHT FOR:

• Any defects in the air bag system noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated; or
• The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated); or
• Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or
• If the air bag indicator fails to light, or stays on continuously.

21. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

• Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle.
• Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.

22. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:

• Any part that is not securely fastened.
• Liquid fuel leakage.
• Fuel tank filler cap for presence.

23. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:

(a) Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment.
(b) Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.

24. – ISSUE STICKER:

(a) If approved, place approval sticker on the vehicle, and give pink copy of certificate to operator.
(b) ALL DEFECTS MUST BE CORRECTED AND THE VEHICLE REINSPECTED WITHIN 15 DAYS.

THE DRIVER MAY BE IN JEOPARDY OF RECEIVING A SUMMONS FOR ANY DEFECT STILL

PRESENT ANY TIME THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED ON THE HIGHWAY.

(NOTE: The validity period of the rejection sticker shall include fifteen (15) days in addition to the day of the inspection.)

NOTE: If you have a specific question with regard to Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection or Inspection Requirements, you can review the safety inspection manual, in part, at MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY INSPECTION RULES AND REGULATIONS (Legislative Information System > 2011 Session).

Virginia State Police employees cannot give legal advice, nor interpret the law for members of the public. Information within this Web site is provided for general guidance purposes only and may not apply to all factual situations. Persons needing legal advice may contact Virginia Lawyer Referral Service at 1-800-552-7977 to be referred to a private attorney for a 30-minute consultation for a fee of $35.00.

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by mredskins

I do have it and it $35 a year now.



Virginia Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Program

The Required Official Inspection Procedure, as approved by the Virginia State Police Superintendent, is as follows:

REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Inspection Manual":

1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.

2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.

3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:

• Worn, damaged or missing parts.
• Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums.
• Leaks in system, proper fluid level.
• Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or discs.
  (NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the official inspection manual for exceptions.)

4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:

• Broken or missing parts.
• Proper adjustment.
• Standard factory equipment or equivalent.

5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:

• Approved type, aim, and output.
• Condition of lamp, wiring and switch.
• Beam indicator.

6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:

• Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
• Aim of fog and driving lamps.
• Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
  (NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. Count load in measuring.)

7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:

• Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
• Correct indications and tell-tale (visual or audible).
• Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.

8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR: (Jack up front end as shown in Manual)

• Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends.
• Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.
• Play in steering wheel.
• Wheel alignment and axle alignment.
• Broken spring leaves, and worn shackles.
• Shock absorbers.
• Broken frame.
• Broken or missing engine mounts.
• Lift blocks.

9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:

• Condition of tires including tread depth.
• Mixing radials and bias ply tires.
• Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.

10. – INSPECT MIRROR FOR:

• Rigidity of mounting.
• Condition of reflecting surface.
• View of road to rear (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body) – (Visibility 200 feet to rear).

11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:

• Electrical connections, mounting and horn button.
• Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.

12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:

• Approved type safety glass.
• Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision.
• Cracked, scratched or broken glass.
• Stickers. ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED.
• Sunshading material attached to the windshield to ensure it does not extend more than 3 inches downward from the top of windshield, unless authorized by Medical Waiver Certificate.
• Operation of left front door glass.

13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:

• Operating condition.
• Condition of blade.

14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

• Exhaust line-manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.
• Leakage of gases at any point from motor to point discharged from system.

15. – INSPECT LICENSE TAGS FOR:

• Illumination of rear plate.

16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:

• Operating condition of hood latch.
• Presence of emissions system -Evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected.
• Fluid levels that are below the proper level
  1. Brake fluid.
  2. Power steering fluid.
• Power steering belt - proper tension, wear, or absence.

17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM (1973 and Subsequent Models) FOR:

• Installation.
• Operation.
  (NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

• Anchorage.
• Location.
• Condition.

19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:

• Approved type.
• Installation.

20. – INSPECT AIR BAG AND AIRBAG READINESS LIGHT FOR:

• Any defects in the air bag system noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated; or
• The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated); or
• Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or
• If the air bag indicator fails to light, or stays on continuously.

21. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

• Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle.
• Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.

22. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:

• Any part that is not securely fastened.
• Liquid fuel leakage.
• Fuel tank filler cap for presence.

23. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:

(a) Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment.

(b) Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.

24. – ISSUE STICKER:

(a) If approved, place approval sticker on the vehicle, and give pink copy of certificate to operator.

(b) ALL DEFECTS MUST BE CORRECTED AND THE VEHICLE REINSPECTED WITHIN 15 DAYS.

THE DRIVER MAY BE IN JEOPARDY OF RECEIVING A SUMMONS FOR ANY DEFECT STILL

PRESENT ANY TIME THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED ON THE HIGHWAY.

(NOTE: The validity period of the rejection sticker shall include fifteen (15) days in addition to the day of the inspection.)

NOTE: If you have a specific question with regard to Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection or Inspection Requirements, you can review the safety inspection manual, in part, at MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY INSPECTION RULES AND REGULATIONS (Legislative Information System > 2011 Session).

Virginia State Police employees cannot give legal advice, nor interpret the law for members of the public. Information within this Web site is provided for general guidance purposes only and may not apply to all factual situations. Persons needing legal advice may contact Virginia Lawyer Referral Service at 1-800-552-7977 to be referred to a private attorney for a 30-minute consultation for a fee of $35.00.

I don't see anything there that talks about a emission inspection. The only thing there that says $35 is to consult a lawyer for 30min.

If your talking about this:

17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM (1973 and Subsequent Models) FOR:

• Installation.
• Operation.
  (NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

This is not an emission test or check.

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by saden1

What? VA doesn't have emission testing anymore?

We have never had emission test.

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by firstdown

We have never had emission test.

What are you talking about? These two items make up an emissions test for the most part:

INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

• Exhaust line-manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.
• Leakage of gases at any point from motor to point discharged from system.

INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM (1973 and Subsequent Models) FOR:

• Installation.
• Operation.
  (NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

That pretty much covers what MD does, give or take.

VEIP General Information

[saden1]

BTW, the dealer told me that the Valve Cover Breather Hose (VCBH) disconnected that's why the service engine light was on and the car was choking.

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by saden1

BTW, the dealer told me that the Valve Cover Breather Hose (VCBH) disconnected that's why the service engine light was on and the car was choking.

Otherwise called a PVC valve? no.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by mredskins

Otherwise called a PVC valve? no.

If I knew anything about cars I would be able to say yes or no. I have no idea what these things do or mean.

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by saden1

If I knew anything about cars I would be able to say yes or no. I have no idea what these things do or mean.

That's probably why your scared to buy a used car. Its like me buying electronics and why I ask dumb questions here.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by firstdown

That's probably why your scared to buy a used car. Its like me buying electronics and why I ask dumb questions here.

That and the fact that the used car my brother bought for 5K fell apart after 2 years. He even had a mechanic take a look at the car before he bought and he still ended up dropped another 2500 repairing it.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by saden1

BTW, the dealer told me that the Valve Cover Breather Hose (VCBH) disconnected that's why the service engine light was on and the car was choking.

The car once again started exhibiting the same problems (choking and engine light is on) and I took it back to the dealer. They said the #3 Engine Coil needs to be replaced. WTF does that mean and is that normal for an 8 yo car with 100K miles. They also told me that if they fix this coil and it happens again I might as well replace all the coils at $150 per coil (i think there are 5 coils).

Are these SOBs gasing me?

[Hog1]

Originally Posted by saden1

The car once again started exhibiting the same problems (choking and engine light is on) and I took it back to the dealer. They said the #3 Engine Coil needs to be replaced. WTF does that mean and is that normal for an 8 yo car with 100K miles. They also told me that if they fix this coil and it happens again I might as well replace all the coils at $150 per coil (i think there are 5 coils).

Are these SOBs gasing me?

I thought it sounded like a coil pack. AND yes there is a certain merit to replacing them all at this time as bad as that sounds. Frequently the labor to get to them is most of the bill. You may want to inquire as to the amount of labor to have one done now or all done now (with the additional parts cost)and see if it merits waiting and replacing them one at a time? It is not unusual to have another pack go south shortly after the first does.
AND I would encourage you to seek out a big "maufacturer specific" car forum for your car and post this stuff. You will get advice from owners having the same problems and usually get some good advice(and some BS as well).

[Monkeydad]

Originally Posted by saden1

The car once again started exhibiting the same problems (choking and engine light is on) and I took it back to the dealer. They said the #3 Engine Coil needs to be replaced. WTF does that mean and is that normal for an 8 yo car with 100K miles. They also told me that if they fix this coil and it happens again I might as well replace all the coils at $150 per coil (i think there are 5 coils).

Are these SOBs gasing me?

They're right on the coil packs needing replaced around that mileage, but they're bending you over on that price.


Go to RockAuto Auto Parts and get the parts there. They beat ANYONE'S prices and service is great.

Coil packs are very easy to change on most cars, you should be able to handle it yourself. Usually accessible right on top of the engine. Follow the spark plug wires to the end not connected to the engine block...the part they connect to on the other end are the coil packs.

Disconnect the batter and the plug wires. The coil packs are usually only held on with a couple of screws or bolts. Just make sure you put the plug wires back on in the same locations, it makes a huge difference. Use some masking tape and mark them 1-4 or 1-6 if you're not completely confident in your memory.

Just change the faulty one...sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. No reason to replace a functioning one.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by Buster

They're right on the coil packs needing replaced around that mileage, but they're bending you over on that price.


Go to RockAuto Auto Parts and get the parts there. They beat ANYONE'S prices and service is great.

Coil packs are very easy to change on most cars, you should be able to handle it yourself. Usually accessible right on top of the engine. Follow the spark plug wires to the end not connected to the engine block...the part they connect to on the other end are the coil packs.

Disconnect the batter and the plug wires. The coil packs are usually only held on with a couple of screws or bolts. Just make sure you put the plug wires back on in the same locations, it makes a huge difference. Use some masking tape and mark them 1-4 or 1-6 if you're not completely confident in your memory.

Just change the faulty one...sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. No reason to replace a functioning one.

Thanks. I know the dealer gouges you but charing $150 for something that costs $50 is pure theft.

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by saden1

Thanks. I know the dealer gouges you but charing $150 for something that costs $50 is pure theft.

They may be charging you $50 for the part and $100 for labor (20 minutes rounded up to an hour).

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by Buster

They're right on the coil packs needing replaced around that mileage, but they're bending you over on that price.


Go to RockAuto Auto Parts and get the parts there. They beat ANYONE'S prices and service is great.

Coil packs are very easy to change on most cars, you should be able to handle it yourself. Usually accessible right on top of the engine. Follow the spark plug wires to the end not connected to the engine block...the part they connect to on the other end are the coil packs.

Disconnect the batter and the plug wires. The coil packs are usually only held on with a couple of screws or bolts. Just make sure you put the plug wires back on in the same locations, it makes a huge difference. Use some masking tape and mark them 1-4 or 1-6 if you're not completely confident in your memory.

Just change the faulty one...sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. No reason to replace a functioning one.

I'm fairly certain the car in question has coil-on-plug coil packs. No plug wires here.