Car Trouble, Need Advice

[saden1]

Originally Posted by mredskins

Otherwise called a PVC valve? no.

If I knew anything about cars I would be able to say yes or no. I have no idea what these things do or mean.

[mredskins]

Originally Posted by CRedskinsRule

well when FD gets catalytic and emission spelled right, you know someone is answering on his behalf anyway!

Ha! So true, thanks for spoiling it. =)

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by SolidSnake84

I think it is a county thing. I live in Frederick County and we dont have it here. have never had it.

No its all Va but its not very much of an inspection. Here was a prior post of mine.

OK I'm wrong after checking Va does have an emission test. From what I read they mainly just go by the inspection to make sure you have a catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe. Larger veh. like work trucks get hit with the actual emission test but not your everyday car.

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by CRedskinsRule

well when FD gets catalytic and emission spelled right, you know someone is answering on his behalf anyway!

I'm a F*%$ing spelling machine.

[firstdown]

Originally Posted by saden1

If I knew anything about cars I would be able to say yes or no. I have no idea what these things do or mean.

That's probably why your scared to buy a used car. Its like me buying electronics and why I ask dumb questions here.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by firstdown

That's probably why your scared to buy a used car. Its like me buying electronics and why I ask dumb questions here.

That and the fact that the used car my brother bought for 5K fell apart after 2 years. He even had a mechanic take a look at the car before he bought and he still ended up dropped another 2500 repairing it.

[SolidSnake84]

Originally Posted by firstdown

No its all Va but its not very much of an inspection. Here was a prior post of mine.

OK I'm wrong after checking Va does have an emission test. From what I read they mainly just go by the inspection to make sure you have a catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe. Larger veh. like work trucks get hit with the actual emission test but not your everyday car.

I can agree with this, because before i had the money for my flowmaster exhaust i have now, for a time i just had a catalitic converter and a straight pipe...no muffler, and my truck passed inspection last july with no problem.

[mlmdub130]

Originally Posted by SolidSnake84

I can agree with this, because before i had the money for my flowmaster exhaust i have now, for a time i just had a catalitic converter and a straight pipe...no muffler, and my truck passed inspection last july with no problem.

not 100% sure but as long as you have a working cat and your check engine light isn't on in va then you pretty much pass emission, espescially if you car is a 2000 or newer. i had a 89 f150 that was jacked up and running straight of the headers for a while and i had to have a buddy hook my up so my truck would pass. i've never had a car inspected in md but from what i hear they are a lot stricter than va.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by saden1

BTW, the dealer told me that the Valve Cover Breather Hose (VCBH) disconnected that's why the service engine light was on and the car was choking.

The car once again started exhibiting the same problems (choking and engine light is on) and I took it back to the dealer. They said the #3 Engine Coil needs to be replaced. WTF does that mean and is that normal for an 8 yo car with 100K miles. They also told me that if they fix this coil and it happens again I might as well replace all the coils at $150 per coil (i think there are 5 coils).

Are these SOBs gasing me?

[Hog1]

Originally Posted by saden1

The car once again started exhibiting the same problems (choking and engine light is on) and I took it back to the dealer. They said the #3 Engine Coil needs to be replaced. WTF does that mean and is that normal for an 8 yo car with 100K miles. They also told me that if they fix this coil and it happens again I might as well replace all the coils at $150 per coil (i think there are 5 coils).

Are these SOBs gasing me?

I thought it sounded like a coil pack. AND yes there is a certain merit to replacing them all at this time as bad as that sounds. Frequently the labor to get to them is most of the bill. You may want to inquire as to the amount of labor to have one done now or all done now (with the additional parts cost)and see if it merits waiting and replacing them one at a time? It is not unusual to have another pack go south shortly after the first does.
AND I would encourage you to seek out a big "maufacturer specific" car forum for your car and post this stuff. You will get advice from owners having the same problems and usually get some good advice(and some BS as well).

[cpayne5]

There's no reason to replace them all at the same time, unless it makes you feel good, I guess. What model and engine? It probably has either 4 or 6 coil packs, depending on the engine.

It shouldn't take any more than 20 minutes (less for most cars) to replace a single coil pack. Add 2 minutes for each additional coil pack . In the aftermarket, you can pick up a coil pack for ~$50-75 for this era Nissan. A good, independent shop should be able to replace a single coil pack for under $100. If you have a 10mm wrench, you can replace it yourself.

[Monkeydad]

Originally Posted by saden1

The car once again started exhibiting the same problems (choking and engine light is on) and I took it back to the dealer. They said the #3 Engine Coil needs to be replaced. WTF does that mean and is that normal for an 8 yo car with 100K miles. They also told me that if they fix this coil and it happens again I might as well replace all the coils at $150 per coil (i think there are 5 coils).

Are these SOBs gasing me?

They're right on the coil packs needing replaced around that mileage, but they're bending you over on that price.


Go to RockAuto Auto Parts and get the parts there. They beat ANYONE'S prices and service is great.

Coil packs are very easy to change on most cars, you should be able to handle it yourself. Usually accessible right on top of the engine. Follow the spark plug wires to the end not connected to the engine block...the part they connect to on the other end are the coil packs.

Disconnect the batter and the plug wires. The coil packs are usually only held on with a couple of screws or bolts. Just make sure you put the plug wires back on in the same locations, it makes a huge difference. Use some masking tape and mark them 1-4 or 1-6 if you're not completely confident in your memory.

Just change the faulty one...sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. No reason to replace a functioning one.

[saden1]

Originally Posted by Buster

They're right on the coil packs needing replaced around that mileage, but they're bending you over on that price.


Go to RockAuto Auto Parts and get the parts there. They beat ANYONE'S prices and service is great.

Coil packs are very easy to change on most cars, you should be able to handle it yourself. Usually accessible right on top of the engine. Follow the spark plug wires to the end not connected to the engine block...the part they connect to on the other end are the coil packs.

Disconnect the batter and the plug wires. The coil packs are usually only held on with a couple of screws or bolts. Just make sure you put the plug wires back on in the same locations, it makes a huge difference. Use some masking tape and mark them 1-4 or 1-6 if you're not completely confident in your memory.

Just change the faulty one...sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. No reason to replace a functioning one.

Thanks. I know the dealer gouges you but charing $150 for something that costs $50 is pure theft.

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by Buster

They're right on the coil packs needing replaced around that mileage, but they're bending you over on that price.


Go to RockAuto Auto Parts and get the parts there. They beat ANYONE'S prices and service is great.

Coil packs are very easy to change on most cars, you should be able to handle it yourself. Usually accessible right on top of the engine. Follow the spark plug wires to the end not connected to the engine block...the part they connect to on the other end are the coil packs.

Disconnect the batter and the plug wires. The coil packs are usually only held on with a couple of screws or bolts. Just make sure you put the plug wires back on in the same locations, it makes a huge difference. Use some masking tape and mark them 1-4 or 1-6 if you're not completely confident in your memory.

Just change the faulty one...sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. No reason to replace a functioning one.

I'm fairly certain the car in question has coil-on-plug coil packs. No plug wires here.

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by saden1

Thanks. I know the dealer gouges you but charing $150 for something that costs $50 is pure theft.

They may be charging you $50 for the part and $100 for labor (20 minutes rounded up to an hour).